Where to Zero

The Rifleman has written before about the  36 yard zero. It is closer to a true 300 yard zero.  However, many ranges do not have a 36 yard line.  How does one zero their rifle like this on a more rigid range, with only common distances?

For starters, it's always best to do an initial zero at 25 yards.  Most ranges have this distance.  And it is kind of like writing a rough draft of a paper - gets things close. 

But you really want either a 100 yard, 200 yard, or 300 yard zero.  And a 25 yard zero is NOT a 300 yard zero.  So, how to do this, then?


Step 1 - get an initial zero at 25 yards. 

Here is an example of an old Army "low light" zero target.  It has a shaded target offset about an inch below the actual target.  Set one of these up at 25 yards.

Aim at the true center, and adjust your sights so that the bullets impact in the dotted circle just below the actual target. 

If you want a 100 yard zero, maybe shade just a bit low in the dotted circle.

If you want a 200 yard zero, bullets should strike in the center of the dotted circle. 

If you want a 300 yard zero, bullets should shade a bit high in the dotted circle. 



Step 2
Now, go out to 100 yards. 
If you want a 100 yard zero, hold true, and move the sights until the bullets strike true. 

If you want a 200 yard zero, your groups should strike about 1 inch above the target at 100 yards.

If you want a 300 yard zero, your groups should strike about 3-3.5 inches above the target at 100 yards.